Austerlitz and Vienna

Pratzen heights from Zurlan Hill

The highlight of our last day at Austerlitz was to revisit Zurlan Hill, Napoleons command post during the battle. On our first day we could see little due to low clouds and heavy rain!

Today was much better. Not exactly bright and sunny, but dry and clear. Its the ideal spot to take panoramic photographs of the battlefield. Unfortunately my camera was not quite up to the job. But I did the best I could, and you can see the results at:

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We then visited the wonderful military museum in Vienna before catching our late afternoon flight back to UK. If you are interested in Napoleonic exhibits and have not yet visited this museum I would highly recommend it.

Austerlitz - Sokolnitz

The last of the Austerlitz villages we visited during this tour was Sokolnitz.

Sokolnitz was the scene of the most savage fighting of the whole battle.

The battle opened with the attack on Telnitz, but quickly spread to the adjoining village of Sokolnitz. The village has a small castle, a large walled garden and a number of large stone buildings. All changed hands many times during the battle.

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Austerlitz - Telnitz

For a casual visitor Tenitz has little of interest. This village was the southern hinge of Napolens battle line, and was the scene of desperate fighting throughout the battle. Despite this we could find no plaque or acknowledgement of its deserved place in history.

Of course it is ten years since we were there, and things may have changed.

We were fortunate that we were on a guided tour, and Alan Rooney brought the history alive with an excellent description. He also took us through the village to the fields beyond which were the scene of the intiial fighting.

For the first time on this tour, the sky cleared and we were able to sit and soak up the athmosphere.

More photos at

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The Pratzen Heights

Without the huge Peace Memorial it would be difficult to identify the Pratzen Heights from any distance. I had expected the heights to dominate the battlefield, but in fact we found it difficult to see them even from Zuran Hill.

The memorial dominates the Pratzen in much the same way that the Lion dominates Wellington's ridge at Waterloo. But at least here the hill was not reduced to build a mound.

From the Pratzen there is an excellent view of the French positions opposite, just as Zuran Hill provided great views of the allied positions.

An easy walk along the ridge covers the area of the main French attack and the desperate allied counter attack.

More photographs of our visit at

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Austerlitz Castle

The castle did not play any significant part in the battle, it was well behind the allied battle line. I believe that the armistice was signed there, and no doubt Napoleon would have spent a night or two there, as it is the most impressive building in the area.

Our battlefield tour included an evening meal at Austerlitz Castle, but we were not expecting the artillery drill display that went with it. Jan even got the opportunity to fire the gun. Next came a display of sword fighting and finally the meal itself.

An excellent evening, and a very enjoyable addition to the tour.

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Austerlitz - The Santon

This small round hill was at the extreme left of Napoleon's battle line. It came under infantry attack during the battle, but was held throughout.

After a cold, wet and muddy morning tramping the fields we were reluctant to leave the warmth and comfort of the Post House, where there was a plentiful supply of local wine to wash down our excellent Santon Cannonball lunch.

It was only when we were offered a lift in the minibus that we agreed to carry on with the afternoon tour. The delay meant we had to abandon the walk to the Santon, but everyone had more than enough of muddy fields to last a lifetime - let along a day.

Once on the Santon we were full of enthusiasm for the tour, and a little guilty that we had missed part of it.

More photos here

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Austerlitz - Post House

The Austrian and Russian General Staff used the Post House on the night before the battle. No doubt the scene of the staff briefing at which Kutuzov fell asleep which was so well described in "War and Peace". On the following night Napoleon met there with his Marshals to issue orders for the pursuit of the beaten allied army.

We arrived there wet, tired and cold after a long morning walking the battlefield in the rain and mud. We were soon seated on one of the long wooden tables in front of a roaring fire with a "Santon Cannonball" and a bottle of local wine in front of us. Those of you who have had the delight of a meal at the Post House will, I am sure, remember the "Santon Cannonball". Its a large, round, white bread loaf with the inside removed and replaced with a very tasty goulash. Just what we needed.

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Austerlitz - Zuran Hill

The view of the battlefield from the Zuran Hill, which was Napoleon's command post during the early stages of the battle, are to Austerlitz what the Lion Mound is to Waterloo. Not an eyesore, but an excellent viewing platform.

Despite the far from perfect weather the whole of the left and centre of the battlefield was laid out before us. From the Santon on our left, to the Post House directly in front and the Pratzen Heights on our right. True the area around Telnitz on the far right were out of sight, and true also that in the early stages of the battle this was a critical area. But the main French attack would be launched on the Pratzen Heights and this was an ideal observation platform for the coming attack.

This week covers our visit to Zuran Hill and the walk accross the battlefield to the Post House a mile or so away.

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Austerlitz - Schlapanitz

Having spent four holidays walking Wellington's battlefields in Portugal and Spain we were in need of a change. We had wanted to visit Austerlitz for a long time, so when we heard that Midas Battlefield Tours were offering a four day walking holiday of Austerlitz we signed up. This is the first of a series of visits to Napoleon's battlefields in Austria, Germany and Czechoslovakia.

The new blog is called Walking Northern Europe

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