Return to Bayonet Ridge

We had planned to visit Orthez, but changed our plans due to light drizzle which promised to turn to heavy rain. Instead we decided to revisit the Bayonet Ridge above Vera. It would be just as wet, but would be a much shorter drive.

The ridge is now home to a collection of duty free shops, and has an excellent car park. Last time we climbed the hill behind Vera and followed the route taken by the Light Division. This time we took the route followed by hundreds of visitors to the duty free shops each day.

The path from the car park was appropriately called Commissari Ridge, and leads to the scene of the fighting in 1813. By the time we arrived the rain was heavy, and soon joined by thunder and lighting. We returned to the car park and a much needed hot drink.

Not for the first time we had to abandon a battlefield walk due to bad weather.

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Roncesvalles Pass

Redoubt de Chateau Rignon

This was our second visit to this battlefield. On our previous visit we had parked on the Pass itself, where roland had fought his famous rear guard action in 778, and explored the scene of the major fighting on 25 July 1813. This was between the Pass and the Altobiscar hill.

For our second visit we wanted to follow the area of the French advance, and explore the intiial contact at the Redoubt de Chateau Rignon and then the light infantry action at Pic de Leizar Atheka.

This involved a long drive from St Jean de Pied de Port to the crest of the Pyrenees. There is a very good road, but narrow and very winding. At the end of this road we reached the Redoubt de Chateau Rignon

We were tempted to follow the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostella which follows the French advance from St Jean. But we estimated it would have taken about 5 hours from St Jean to the Pic de Leizar, and then the same distance back. We considered this was just a little too long to walk, particularly as it would involve a steep climb. However when we saw how beautiful the countryside is, we were quite sorry we did not do so. Perhaps we will return in the future and try again.

The diary entry for the day, and some more photographs, are at:

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Amotz Bridge and Ainhoa Redoubt

Today the bridge is in a sad state of repair and overgrown with weeds. It is now only used by local farmers. There is a new road from Sare to Ainhoa, and a new brigde over the river Nivelle. The reglected bridge is well back from the new road, and can easily be missed when travelling between Sare and Ainhoa by car.

In 1813 it was a different matter entirely. This bridge was the only communication link between the left and right wings of Soult's army during the battle of the Nivelle. Its capture by the Third Division forced the French to withdraw to their next line of defence on the Nive.

Walking the five miles from the bridge to the line of redoubts overlooking Ainhoa is a delight. The path is a rutten farm track and throughout the day we spent there we only passed three young men on mountain bikes.

The area must look exactly the same as it did in 1813, and enjoying the peace and quite we had plenty of time to relfect on the battle and how difficult it must have been for Marshal Soult to exercise control over his army over such a wide area.

Diary entry and more photographs at:

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The Bayonet Ridge

Bayonet Ridge by Captain Robert Batty who took part in the battle

The French held a very strong fortified position on The Rhune, which is the dominating mountain in this part of the Pyrenees. On 7 October 1813 the Light Division crossed the river Bidassoa and stormed the enemy fortifications on the Bayonet Ridge. The attack was a complete success and secured the Greater Rhune for Wellington, forcing the French to retire to their second line of defences on the lower Le Petit Rhune.

It was yet another overcast morning when we arrived at the village of Vera to climb through the woods to The Bayonet Ridge. We had about four hours to explore the area before the rain arrived and forced us to give us and seek shelter in the collection of tax free shops which now clutter the area.

More photographs at:

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La Rhune

La Rhune is a large mountain on the Spanish-French border between the rivers Bidossa and Nivelle. It consists of two peaks the higher is Grande Rhune and in November 1813 was occupied by Welllington and the Light Division. The lower peak is Petite Rhune, and was strongly defended by Soult and the French. The battle of the Nivelle opened with the light division assault on La Petite Rhune.

It was one of those desperate hand to hand battles, which make such stirring reading. There is a detailed account in "Wellington, the Bidassoa and Novelle" by Major Gneeral F C Beatson, which was our companion during our visit in 1996.

A full account of the day we spent on La Petite Rhune, together with more photographs, can be found at

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Ainhoa and the Pass of Maya

Another overcast day, but a very enjoyable first visit to Ainhoa and a return visit to the Pass of Maya.

On our previous visit to Maya we had failed to find Mount Gorospil, and had done more research in preparation for this visit to avoid another disappointment. We found this sign post which led us to the path used by the French in 1813 and then to Gorospil.

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Louis XIV and Signal Redoubts

Wet and miserable weather returns, not at all what we had expected from the South of France in June! Despite the weather we set off to explore the hills behind Sare, and in particular The Louis XIV and Signal Redoubts, which had played such an important part in the battle of the Nivelle on 10 November 1813.

This walk on a dull and cold June day would bring home to Jan and I just how difficult it must have been to campaign with Wellington. It was difficult enough to climb the muddy paths leading to the hills, and the redoubts, behind Sare. But to imagine how much more difficult it would have been to do so when hungry, wet, cold and carrying all your personal belongings on your back. And to then have to fight to capture these strong redoubts from the determined French who were defending their own country.

The area held by Marshal Soult covered 20 miles from St Jean du Luz on the coast inland to Urdrax, and consisted of a whole series of defended villages, barricades and strong redoubts on the crest of the hills.

Our visit is covered in this weeks Walking Napoleonic Battlefields.

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