Albuera

After an uneventful evening in Badajoz we were excited at the prospect of visiting Albuera. I would have welcomed a guided tour of Badajoz but this was not to be. The battle of Albuera which was fought on 5 May 1811 is not one I had studied in any great detaill. I was aware that it had been fought on the same day as Fuentes de Orono. But I knew more about the latter battle, because Wellington had been in command. I should explain that I had read quite a few books about the Peninsular campaign, but I was at the stage where it was all a little confused in my mind. I was hoping that this tour would help to keep the different battles and campaigns in some sort of order.

It is a short drive from Badajoz to Albuera, about 15 miles. So soon after leaving the city we were in the unimpressive town. Our first stop was the town square.

Albuera is situated west of the river of the same name, which flows north from south. The French approached along the main road, which crossed the river by a bridge and then passed through the town. The French had come north to raise the siege of Badajoz.

Beresford deployed his British, Portuguese and Spanish troops in the expectation that Soult would attack over river, using the bridge. The Spanish formed the allied right, or south, flank. They were still deploying as the French attack on the town commenced.

Our first stop was in the town square, with its memorial to the battle. The town was pretty unimpressive, and as I had not read up on the battle in any great detail not particularly interesting. I knew that the town was held by a KGL brigade, but that was about the extent of my knowledge.

We were however able to obtain an excellent view of the area of the French approach. The first attack was on the town and the nearby bridge. There was an area of trees to the right of the photograph, on the far side of the river. So Beresford could not see what the French reserves were doing. In fact they were crossing the river further to the right and were about to attack his flank - currently held by the Spanish.

This is the bridge over the river Albuera, and the scene of much fighting. The first French attack was over this bridge, and across the river either side of it. This is apparently the original bridge and not a later replacement.

The area of fighting on the allied right flank is an easy walk from the town, but you don't have to walk with Holts Tours. We trooped back onto the coach, and it took us across the fields to a spot, which we were assured, was the centre of the main fighting. Above Captain P and Julia explain the battle and point out the relevant points.

The main French attack was against the weakly held allied right flank. Beresford did not spot the French crossing the river, and the Spanish troops were to bear the brunt of the initial attack unsupported. The Spanish holding this area held their ground until supported by the British infantry. The firefight turned into a real "slogging match". The French were fought to a stand still, and eventually retreated south. However the allied casualties were very high. Many of the English troops involved were convinced that it would not have happened had Wellington himself been in command. However he never blamed Beresford, and indeed always supported him in his handling of the battle.

As you can see, the ground is flat and featureless. There is no sign of the "hill" where the firefight took place, but we were told that this is the area where the Spanish, and later British, troops exchanged fire with the French, who approached over this arable land. I have since read that there is some debate about the exact dispositions, but I have no reason to doubt what we were told.

Another view of the main fighting area. Left centre background is the town church, and in the centre the bridge.

I guess that we spent about one hour in the town, and another on the battlefield. As we were briefed on the battle, the coach driver washed the coach after its cross country drive! This visit was typical of the whole tour. You were driven to the exact spot where you would view the battle, which was explained in sweeping detail. You took your photographs, and you got back on the coach again - which had been washed while you were being briefed. Nothing wrong with that, and indeed it seemed to be just what my fellow travellers wanted. Indeed it might even be true that there was not much more to see no matter how much time you allowed for the visit. However I was left wishing I could have got my shoes just a little muddy and been allowed to explore the area more.